Westfjord and Snæfellsnes Peninsula
The first time going to Iceland, I was full of ambition but short on knowledge. I ran out of time and bypassed Westfjord and Snæfellsnes. So they became my destinations on my second trip.
The journey to glacier carved Westfjord, known for its remote ruggedness and unforgiving weather, is by no means a straight line. During planning, I placed my marker at an inlet shaped like eagle's talon for the starting point. Then Westfjord can be reached by twisting and turning a dozen times along the fjords. We set our base at Bildudalur to explore for the first 3 days. I rented a century old house facing the beautiful harbor.
Látrabjarg is famous for its bird cliffs. Indeed, it deserves every bit of its fame. We walked along the cliff atop a vast plateau in a hazy mist. The cliff, zigzagging along the coast and stretching out to the sky, is a haven for seabirds. On clear days, one might spot good-natured puffins perching on the cliff. The path, carved along the cliffs, was a sensational walk. Thick fog added a layer of mystique. The vague contours of the cliffs from the fog enticed us to walk further and further. One cliff after another, we felt as if we were walking higher and higher, towards the sky and into the ocean. Wind started to pick up, rain drops felt heavier. Cranky Z demanded to go back, and I wanted to continue. But I knew we were not prepared for long walks. At the westernmost point of the island, the trail extends 15 km to the next shelter. But you can go on and on. I saved it for next time.
There were no shortage of beautiful beaches. But we found a pristine, golden one en route from Látrabjarg to Bildudalur. I wish Z was a better photographer then (You are awesome now, honey. Just don't read my blogs!). The evasive sun light, the golden sand, and the greenish blue sea, created such a harmony together that inspired a great deal of imagination. But no picture of mine could capture (from an old cell phone).
Feeling ambitious, I collected all 7 hiking maps, but managed only one: the 752 m high Lomfell, the highest peak on map 4. Legend had it that the first Norwegian settler climbed up this mountain and saw the western fjords buried in drifting ice and hence named it "Iceland". This trail should be considered as a well marked one compared to my prior experience. But there wasn't really a trail. You just follow wooden sticks painted white. It was not graded as a tough hike, 2-3 hours as suggested. But that was Icelandic grading, ill fitted for "commoners" like us. We slid and struggled for over 5 hours! Why those egg shaped dark rocks so slippery? Who knows? One wonders if they have ever seen a dry day! Yet, the reward was magnificent. Standing on top of the mountain, legs shaking in the howling wind, I could somewhat sense the jubilation of the early explorer when he set eyes on the virgin land. If it were now, I would have been a lot more confident. I'm now equipped with my hiking poles, water-proof hiking boots, wool socks, hat and gloves, compass, and my favorite BCNAV GPS App on my phone. I can also carry much more food and emergency supplies as Z can carry more stuff nowadays. Yes, GPS goes a long way in Iceland. All my hiking maps have GPS coordinates. Coordinates are the only reliable identification of where you are and where you want to be, as roads and towns are sparse. Now, I even have a bit of adventurer's swagger...
Snæfellsnes is a magical place. Compared to Westfjord, nature paints a much softer image for this peninsula. It just rained every other hour (when we were there). The sun light pierced through the fluffy clouds and spread onto the winding road, revealing only a small piece of pure blue sky. The rain washed mountains along the peninsula glistened in the light. Ancient glacier took its time to shape these mountains into majestic sculptures. Jules Verne got inspired and wrote Journey to the Center of the Earth. The Viking settlers got inspired and came up with Icelandic Saga. I was inspired too. So I rented a tiny white house in the middle of the hay field. I sat by the window and watched the rainbow come and go......Snæfellsjökull, the glacier covered volcano that Jules's character explored, was at the western end of the Peninsula. Sadly, we could not walk on the glacier. The weather was getting warmer and warmer. To explore the glacial summit, one should go in June. But the disappointment didn't last long, an hour later, we were riding the Icelandic horses along the shore.
At the conclusion of our quest for the "otherworldliness", we decided that we will come back to hike to our heart's content someday. We'll be well-prepared then.