Cauterets – Refuge Oulettes De Gaube
Another hot day, a lot of climb to do and not really knowing where we would end up, so we had to start the day early. Confusion over two routes both marked as GR10 wasted us an hour. We intended to walk from Cauterets – Refuge Oulettes - Refuge Baysellence - Gavarnie – Luz-Sainte-Sauveur, while the standard route according to Cicero’s guidebook is from Cauterets to Luz directly.
By the time we got on the right track, the sun already hung high over our head. We initially climbed up along the outskirt of Cauterets, then all the way down to the junction of three streams where a powerful cascade was formed. We resumed the climb on a switchback tracing the cascade. The gushing waterfall pounded the rocks with huge splashes and uproars. The climb was arduous, but the mist in the air cooled us down. We gained quite a bit of elevation, yet the waterfall was as fierce as ever. The origin must be far beyond where we were. Then a restaurant hotel, together with a lot of tourists, emerged. We reached Pont D’Espagne, which is accessible by bus. Z.Z. shook his head: should have taken it! I shot back: too late! So we marched on.
This is a popular section. Hikers we encountered here outnumbered everywhere else, many heading to the famous Lac d’Gaube. What amazes us were the “senior” hikers. These folks, well into retirement age, of all shapes and statures but radiant with heartfelt joy, climbed with slow and steady pace. I had to admire these folks. After all, it was not fair to compare Cauterets with Florida. Folks didn’t come here to nap under the sun.
Lac d’Gaube is a magical place. I can pile all the beautiful adjectives but only your own eyes could tell the whole story. Z.Z. busied himself with videos and cameras while I felt quite relaxed just staring into that exquisite, turquoise mirror. After a long break, we moved on as the magnificent, snow-capped dome in the distance is an enticement for every walker. The path continues to follow the glistening torrent, climbing higher. Gradually, the narrow rocky path gave way to open alpine meadow where wavy wildflowers danced happily in the wind and the stream chanted cheerful tunes. This was a tenuous hike, but the most beautiful one we had ever walked. After another spur over a huge rock pile, we reached Refuge Oulettes. This was, in my mind, a scene in the fairytale. In front of the refuge, was a massive colosseum wielded by nature. A giant stage, perfectly decorated with grassy carpet and silky streams, was set within the amphitheater of granite peaks. The ever-changing cloud seemed almost touchable. The playful goats wandered leisurely, feeding on the tender grass. Hikers came and went, a few pushing on to the next summit. I dipped my feet into the icy cold stream formed from the melting snow and felt an instant sensation. If I was strong enough, I would dash across that stage, climb up the choppy granite stairs, and get myself a balcony seat right above the snowy enclave. Z.Z. tried to capture it with camera while I sat and dreamed.
Oulettes was my favorite place.