Bareges – Refuge de O’redon

Natalie and Philippe run a prosperous business. I would not be surprised at all if they become the most beloved hosts in town. But it was not just about business. It was their kindness, generosity, and the willingness to go to extra miles for strangers that touched my heart. Heavy thunderstorm was in the forecast and we saw the satellite images in the lobby . But with their help, we managed to continue our hike despite the threatening weather, which still offer a window of opportunity most of the time for trekking in reasonable condition.

Philippe gave us a ride to GR10 trailhead outside Barege, saving us over an hour of precious time and the long road walk. With a bit trepidation for ugly weather, we embarked on the trek to Madamete which is lauded as one of the most scenic walk in Midi-Pyrenees. We met two more hikers early on. Soon we caught up with a group. This came as a pleasant surprise. We like hiking in solitude. But with a threatening sky, we would rather stick with a group than be the tough guys. Safety in a crowd, at least psychologically I guess.

Survived the early trials of heatstroke and height scare, Z.Z.’s biological adaptation kicked in. He was getting stronger and steadier day by day. Emboldened by the company of fellow hikers, we both picked up speed and feeling exuberant. Z.Z. hopped over from one large rock to another with ease. I attempted to do the same. When my right foot landed awkwardly on the hard surface, I felt a sharp pain, likely from a tear on the inside of my knee. I could still walk, but I knew my knee took some real beating. I carried on, cursing my own carelessness.

It was a continuous, steady climb. A plethora of alpine lakes dotted the rocky landscape, like shiny pearls scattered on a grey carpet. We were fascinated by this unique feature. The path meandered between the lakes and crags, forming an intriguing labyrinth. Couple guys ahead of us turned around because they just realized they were walking in circles! I checked my GPS. Alas! Were we on the right trek? The big group caught up with us and their guide insisted that this is the right path. It finally dawned on me that the path we were on does not lead to Madamete. The group guide explained that we were on the “lake” route to a sister col of Madamete. I examined the GPS map: a little squiggly line parted the route I was on about a couple miles ago. That one leads to Matamete, not the one we were on. By this time, we knew how deceptive those little squiggly lines could be. With a wobbly knee and not enough time to retract and reach the col before the thunderstorm, I decided to continue on the lake trail. Discover something new and leave the famed one for the next time, I comforted myself.

We were not disappointed. After a series of lung bursting ascent, we reached a massive col where wind blew wild. We could hardly stand still, but what a view! In the heart of the rugged mountain range, two oval-shaped, mile long lakes in rich indigo lay peacefully among the spiky pine forest. The color of the water was incredible. Wind was howling, but we stood there, staring into the beauty that was frozen in time and space.

Rain picked up the pace as we descended through a maze of boulders. By the time we reached the pine forest, it was in full swing. Drenched in rain, sweat and mud, I hobbled along the curvy shore of Lake Aumar, admiring her grace and laughing at my own frailty. By then, I conceded my leadership position to Z.Z. We lost the traces of all the other hikers. Z.Z. became the trailblazer. With the assurance of GPS, we followed another squiggly line towards Refuge de O’redon.

No squiggly path in the Pyrenees should be taken for granted. That muddy trail in the backwater, looking deceivingly short, was in fact long and treacherous. But we were lucky enough that we walked in rain rather than raging thunderstorm. In retrospect, we missed another golden opportunity nearby the bewitching lake to get back on GR10. From there, GR10 goes all the way to Refuge de l’Oule. Doing so would cut the last day’s trek by 3 hours. Yet, by chance, we completed this breathtakingly beautiful lake trail at Lac de O’redon.

O’redon is another charming lake in deep blue, a popular tourist destination accessible by car. I was happy to be out of the wilderness as my cranky knee was screaming for rest.